Frankenjura is one of the biggest climbing region for climbing in Germany.
It is located northern Bavaria, between the cities of Nuremberg, Bamberg, and Bayreuth and approximately 1,000 crags spread out in a beautiful forest. Especially the world’s first 8c (Wallstreet) and 9a (Action directe) are very famous among them.
Frankenjura is something for climbers of all abilities, not only top climbers but also beginners and intermediate climbers.
The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality white and grey limestone rock, that is full of finger pockets and holes 👆🏻
Incidentally, the redpoint concept was born in Furankenjura.
Climbing sites in Frankenjura
My impression of Frankenjura was that the areas looked like Japanese climbing areas, as most of the cliffs were strewn in the forest.
The climbing routes were relatively short and hard.
"Would you call it bouldering-like?"
"Maybe not so much?"
Either way, it felt short and difficult. But Fun!
The Climbing Season
The climbing season is from April to the end of October. The optimum time to climb at Frankenjura is from June to September. Most of the crags are situated in deep woods that mean climbing is agreeable during the whole summer.
But...
We went to Frankenjura early in August 2015. That was an unusually hot summer, with temperatures reaching as high as 35°C. We felt very hot even even in the forest 🥵
As local climbers told us, the temperature at that time was only once or less in a year. In any case we could enjoy climbing in Frankenjura 🤣
The crags are scattered all over the area, you can go to a lot more places than just one area, during the day depending upon the sun and heat etc…
Access to the Climbing Area
The crags are scattered and it was sometimes very difficult to reach the desired area.
However, the internet is much better these days than we went to there at 2015, and I think (hope), you can get to the climbing area without getting lost.
If you're worried about battery life... If you can, I recommend carrying a detailed map (kampass Wander : 170 & 173).
Climbing Equipment
・rope 70m
・12 quickdraws
Depends on the route you want to climb....
You could probably climb most routes 🙄 At least, it was not a problem on the routes we climbed. In the most cases a rope of 50m is absolutely sufficient. But some cliffs are higher than 30m.
Perhaps this is common to all climbing areas in Germany, Frankenjura is no exception, and there were some routes where the distance between bolts was quite far. Bring some cams and nuts, slings, that will be helpful sometimes.
Even on the easier routes, the first bolt is not found until about 5m into the climb, and sometimes the run out along the way is amazing 😂
📚 Rock Climbing Guidebooks
Franken 2
There are two books in different languages 1️⃣ German (only) version 2️⃣ Topo described in both German and English.
The German/English topo is thicker and has two volumes (vol1.2). Action Directe (UIAA 11, Waldkopf) is in the (vol.2) topo.
The climbing areas I climbed in Frankenjura (2015)
Day 1 : Großenoher Wand
Day 2 : Grüne Hölle
Day 3 : Zimmerbergwände ➡️ Stadeltenne
Climbing in Frankenjura 2015. This is my first time in Frankenjura. It was too hot ☀️🥵😂 Nice atmosphere and nice the forest, nice climbing routes 😍
✅ Großenoher Wand
It was a little difficult to find the rocky spot, but we managed to get there. It was surrounded by trees and rocks. The height is not so high, about 25 meters at the highest point. It is like a climbing area in Japan.
The atmosphere of the crag was nostalgic, but the grade was dry. The bolts are spaced far apart. Is this style of climbing Frankenjura (German climbing)?
✅ Grüne Hölle
We managed to get to the parking lot, but the path to the rocky area was confusing. Grüne Hölle wall is also a short route of about 10m. But the slope is very steep and there are pockets. This area is typical of the style of climbing in Frankenjura.
✅ Zimmerbergwände ➡️ Stadeltenne
The Stadeltenne area is a good area for intermediate climbers, while the Zimmerbergwände is a good area for beginners.
Maßarbeit (UIAA : 9-) climbed in Stadeltenne area was a very good route that I would like to come back to this area for RP.
✅ Waldkopf ➡️ Krottenseer ➡️ Maximilianswand
We first visited Action Directe and then moved on to the Krottenseer Turm & Maximilianswand area.
The Krottenseer Turm & Maximilianswand area has about 76 routes, and I think it is an area that both beginners and advanced climbers can enjoy for a day.
Accommodation :
⛺️ camping site
Oma Eichler (Gasthof Eichler)
91286 Obertrubach
Campsites, like Oma Eichler (Gasthof Eichler), are listed in the topo.
The campsite, Oma Eichler (Gasthof Eichler), had free internet access for guests. The owner was a nice person. It did not provide meals.
However, there is a restaurant in a nearby village that serves good meals at reasonable prices. The only problem with using the restaurant is that it closes around 8pm 🤔
Restaurant in Hundsdorf
We had dinner at a restaurant in Hundsdorf. It is a locally produced and consumed restaurant where the owner cooks meat that he hunts in the forest. It was very delicious!
🏊🏻♀️🏊🏻♂️ Swimming Pool
Badstraße, 91349 Egloffstein
Egloffstein, a neighboring village with a camp site Oma Eichler, had a 20m pool. I was personally surprised to see such a well-equipped facility in the mountains, but it was crowded with many parents, children, and elderly people.
There are also hot shower facilities, and you could use only the showers (1€, 201). The showers here have no time limit, so they may be easier to use than the showers at the camp site Oma Eichler. The pool was open from 8:00 to 20:00, 2015.
✍🏻 List of climbing routes which I have climbed 👉🏻 Frankenjura
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