The Verdon Valley (Gorges du Verdon) is located in the Verdon Natural Park which is the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in southeastern France. It is one of the most beautiful gorges in Europe.
The Verdon River, which flows through the Verdon Valley (canyon), is about 6-100 m wide, and the tops of the canyons on both sides are about 200 m to 1500 m wide.
Limestone cliffs with a height of 600 to 700 m are cut vertically on both banks on the Verdon side. The cliffs are so narrow and steep. If you look down from the top, you might be sucked in The Verdon Valley 🙄?
The contrast between the white limestone cliffs and the deep green (emerald green) Verdon River is very beautiful. That’s why the area is crowded with tourists during the summer vacation season.
In addition to climbing, the Verdon Valley (canyon) offers many activities such as trekking, rafting, canoeing, and canyoning.
Climbing sites in Gorges du Verdon
The climbing area can be roughly divided into (L'Escalès, Eycharme....) and (La rive gauche). My personal impression is that climbing in the Verdon valley (Gorges du Verdon) is more like (La rive gauche), but I am not sure 🙄.
Climbing Equipment
・double rope 60m
・minimum 16 quickdraws
・protections (cam, nut, friends ... etc)
Depends on the route you want to climb....
If you have a double rope 60m and at least 16 quickdraws, you may be able to climb most routes 🙄 At least, I had no problem on the routes when I climbed.
When you climb classic routes like “La Demande”, you will probably need cams, nuts, etc. Some routes are also marked in the topo with cams (Friends, Camelot...) and nuts. Some routes require them to be climbed.
Looking at the topo, there are some routes that require 22 quickdraws. It seems to be a route that extends up to 50m 😅 This is 2 pitches I usually climb.
The Climbing Season
The best season in general is autumn.
According to the old man at the camp site, September through October is recommended.
Summer is too hot, but since it is the vacation season, many climbers seem to climb on the north wall or in the shade.
Access to the Climbing Area
If you are staying near La Palud-sur-Verdon, it is conveniently located near the climbing area (L'Escalès, Eycharme ....). If you are staying near Lake Saint-Croix (Lac de Sainte-Croix), it might be better to estimate at least 1 hour to the climbing area (L'Escalès, Eycharme).
Please note that some roads are one-way streets. There may be traffic jams during the vacation season.
Depending on the climbing area, climbing in the Gorges du Verdon is done by rappel from the parking lot to the desired route. The topo will indicate the rappel point and how many meters to descend in one rappel
Rock Climbing Guidebooks
There are two main types of local climbing topo.
✅ Verdon 2017 - 52 ans et 520 voies d'escalade au Verdon
L'Escalès, Eycharme....
✅ Grimper à Aiguines - Verdon rive gauche
La rive gauche
These Climbing Guidebooks are available at a small climbing equipment shop, as well as at a bookstore and olive oil shop, in La Pallue.
Climbing in Gorges du Verdon 2021. This is my first time in Gorges du Verdon. It is good 🌤 Nice atmosphere and nice view, nice route 😍
✅ Moyen Eycharme - Monier :
Des Trous de première classe
Cotations:TD 6b>6a+ II P1
Dénivelé des difficultés 100 m
👱🏻♀️ L1:6a 🐢 L2:6b 👱🏻♀️ L3:6a 🐢 L4:6b
Very nice. But a bit short. L2 : 6b is more difficult than L4 : 6b. In my experience, L2 : 6b and L4 : 6a+?
✅ Escalès - Dérobée / Castapiagne La Dérobée (variante) + Le rasoir (variante)
Cotations:TD 6c?>5c+
Dénivelé des difficultés 180 m
👱🏻♀️ L1:5c 🐢 L2:6c? 👱🏻♀️ L3:5c 🐢 L4:5c+ 👱🏻♀️L5:5c+
L4 is very long and very beautiful way. L5 is also very nice.
✅ Escalès - Carelle Aval Les Deux Doigts Dans Le Nez
Cotations:TD 6a+>6a+ P1
Dénivelé des difficultés 150 m
🐢 L1:6a+ 👱🏻♀️ L2:6a+ 🐢 L3:6a+ 👱🏻♀️ L4:6a+ 🐢 L5:6a+
The (6a+) is mandatory. Well 5 pitches are homogeneous at this level. All pitches are splendid, varied and demanding. L2 crosses and makes a right/left hook, managing the draw well. The dihedral on the last pitch is beautiful. Well equipped.
❌ Escalès - Terrasse médiane La Demande
Cotations TD 6a>6a P2
Dénivelé des difficultés 320 m
🐢L1:6a 👱🏻♀️ L2:5c ⛔️ (L3:5c, L4:5c+, L5:6a, L6:5c+, L7:5c, L8:6a, L9:5b, L10:5c+, L11:6a, L12:5c)
We gave up climbing at L2 : 5c 😢
We didn't have protections (cam, nut, friends ... etc) 😆
Accommodation : ⛺️ camping site
・Camping Bourbon
・Camping municipal - le Grand Canyon
・Camping Boulogne
Bourbon Campground and Municipal Campground - Grand Canyon are easily accessible. However, when I checked the website, October was already closed. That is why we used "Camping Boulogne".
⛺️ Camping Boulogne
The Camping Boulogne's owner, which we used, was chatty and was a very nice person. Please note that cards cannot be used for payment. Cash required.
My question is the number of toilets and showers. There were separate toilets and showers for men and women, one for each. We had no problems when we stayed at October, but I wonder what about the high season 🙄?
🏨 L'Auberge de jeunesse de la Palud sur Verdon
25 chemin de Boulogne Route de la Maline 04120 LA PALUD-SUR-VERDON
My friends stayed here.
✍🏻 D'escalade dans les Gorges du Verdon 2021
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