The Calanques (Les Calanques 🇫🇷) is a 20 km stretch of coastline from Marseille to the small port town of Cassis.
When I ask my French climbing friends about Calanque's impression, everyone says it's a beautiful place.
The deep coves, cobalt blue Mediterranean Sea, and white cliffs are beautiful not only for climbers, but also for all visitors.
It is also a perfect place for swimming, kayaking, sailing, or trekking..... around Calanques.
The Calanques has been designated a French National Park since 2012.
This time, march 2016, is my second calanque since 2013 and it is always beautiful.
It is "The European Climb" as I personally imagine it.
Blue waters and white limestone cliffs.
Even if you can't climb it, even if the approach is long, you will be very satisfied with this view.
Climbing sites in Les Calanques
1️⃣ Marseilleveyre
2️⃣ Les Goudes
3️⃣ Melette
4️⃣ Sormiou
5️⃣ Morgiou
6️⃣ Luminy
7️⃣ Gardiole
8️⃣ En Vau
We climbed En Vau, Luminy, Morgiou and Sormiou in 2013 and En Vau, Morgiou and Sormiou in 2016.
Although the approach is difficult, En Vau has some easy multi-pitch climbs and is a beautiful climbing area with the feeling of being surrounded by sheer cliffs and looming rock.
Climbing Equipment
・Single rope 70-80m
・double rope 50-60m
・minimum 12 quickdraws
Depends on the route you want to climb....
If you have a double rope 60m and at least 12 quickdraws, you may be able to climb most routes 🙄 At least, I had no problem on the routes when I climbed.
The Climbing Season
I think it is too hot to climb in the summer unless you choose the right area. Deep water solo climbing 🤣?
Access to the Climbing Area
Les Calanques are not allowed to drive to the ports of Morgiou or Sormiou during the summer (exceptionally, those who have booked hotels along the port).
It takes 1-2 hours to walk from the parking lot to the harbor during the summer months, so it may be better to remove the summer months for climbing at Les Calanques (Calanques).
That said, the nearest parking lots to En Vau and Luminy remain the same throughout the year, so it's hard to say. Also the Colline de lun area in Sormiou, where we climbed this time, is at the entrance to Sormiou, so parking is the same throughout the year.
You can get information about parking and other information from ➡️ this site 📡
Rock Climbing Guidebooks
LIVRE TOPO ESCALADE LES CALANQUES 2022- FFME
It was hard to understand the approach, perhaps because of the French language. But come to think of it, a French climbing friends of mine were lost, so it was not a language problem.
There are similar crags, so you need to be careful, but once you get to the area you want to climb, it was relatively easy to understand the climbing routes because they have pictures of them.
Climbing Grades
For single-pitch climbing, personally, up to (~5c+), I find it difficult in terms of experience. Up to (6a~7a) is, well, reasonable. I don't know about (7a+) and above, as I haven't climbed them yet.
When multi-pitch climbing marginal grades, it may be a good idea to double-check the grade on the website. There have been routes that I have climbed where the grade was clearly harder than the topo grade, and when I checked the website later, it was the grade I felt I was getting.
When rappelling back down, use only the assigned route (the route with the rappel station)
Multi-pitch climbing in Les Calanques (Morgiou : Crêt Saint Michel)
La Paroi Noire (3b・4b・4c・4a)
We originally planned to climb La Tout Droit next door, but made a mistake because the topo and the actual start of the route were misaligned 😐 This route was affordable and someone was climbing all day long.
Eperon de Droite (4b・5c・5c)
The second pitch, I was thinking "(5c) is too hard for me ", the website says (6a+) 😅 No wonder maillon was hanging in two places 😂
🏠 Accommodation
⛺️️ Campsite
Camping Les Cigales (43 Avenue de la Marne, 13260 Cassis)
☎️ 04 42 01 07 34
⛺️ Ouvert du mi-mars au mi-novembre
There are several camp sites around Calanques, but Camping Les Cigales is recommended because it is close to the climbing area.
We stayed there for a week in May 2013. It was relatively crowded during this season. I guess the problem is the showers in the evening. The temperature was sometimes cold, perhaps due to the large number of people using it.
The toilets had no toilet seats and we had to bring our own paper. There was a power supply in the sink (French type) and it was possible to charge your phone, etc.
Camping Les Cigales is more than 30 minutes away from the campsite (3 star, I think?) with poutes. We stayed one night at Camping Les Cigales, but personally, Camping Les Cigales was enough for me considering the price, etc.
🏠 Accommodation
In March 2016 we used accommodation (airbnb). We stayed in an accommodation (airbnb) near the port city of Cassis for 4 days and 3 nights with 5 people for 91€ / one person. Accommodation (airbnb) is comfortable as long as the key is handed over well.
Supermarket
Auchan
Aubagne en Provence branch, address;13400 Aubagne
It seems to be open until 21:30 on weekdays.
⚠️ I recommend you to check the internet in advance.
The SPAR and the bakery in Cassis are open on Sundays.
✍🏻 List of climbing routes which I have climbed 👉🏻 Les Calanques 🙈
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