In the summer of 2022, I will be visiting the Écrins National Park (le massif des Écrins), one of the 10 national parks in France. The Écrins massif is a large mountain range in the French Alps located in the Haute-Alpes and Isère, with glaciers and two peaks over 4,000 meters high.
The plan is to climb mainly multi-pitch in the popular climbing area Aiguille Dibona and other areas in the Écrins massif (le massif des Écrins).
After a heavy thunderstorm the previous evening, the morning turned out to be a beautiful and sunny climbing day. We decided to climb Tête de la Maye (2518m), a relatively easy-to-access route in front of our campsite (Camping municipal de la Berarde).
Tête de la Maye (2518m) has about 18 multi-pitch climbs. This time we climbed “Maye Oh Niaise (TD+ 6c>6b)” in the middle of Tête de la Maye (2518m).
2 people acting together :
Team : 👱🏻🇮🇹 Andrea & 🐢🇯🇵
9:20 Depart camp site (Camping municipal de la Berarde)
10:00 Start climbing
17:50 Start descent
19:30 Return to campsite (Camping municipal de la Berarde)
Climbing equipment during the ascent of "Maye Oh Niaise
Ropes : double rope 2 x 50 m
16 quickdraws
slings and carabine
The crux is the overhang at (L6, 6c), but if you can climb Martinswand's "l'extrême onction (L2, 6b+)" in South Vosges, it is not much of a problem. The next slab pitch (L8, 6a) is quite more interesting than the overhang of (L6, 6c) 😆
The day after climbing "Maye Oh Niaise" at Tête de la Maye, we only climbed L1 (5c+) & L2 (6a) as we planned to climb Refuge Soreiller at the foot of Aiguille Dibona (3131m).
You can read more about the climbing topo (OISANS NOUVEAU, OISANS SAUVAGE - Livre Ouest) and the campsite (Camping Boulogne) we used 👉🏻 here.
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