This (September 2015) was my first time in the Via Ferrata. I mean, it was my first time in the Dolomites, my first mountain climbing trip abroad and my first solo mountaineering trip including in Japan.
I was a bit worried at the planning stage 😕 but the weather was great and I was able to enjoy the Via Ferrata ☀️ If I don't find a climbing partner, I'm thinking "maybe via ferrata again 🤔"
What is via ferrata?
It is a mountain route equipped with steel cables, ladders and other fixed anchors fixed to the rock. A “Via Ferrata” translates as “Iron Path” in English. It is more of a climbing route than a typical mountaineering route.
What's good about via ferrata?
Personally, Via Ferrata is less likely to get lost than regular mountain climbing because the route is wired 😁 Conversely, it is easy to stagnate because the route is fixed 😅
The Via Ferrata Season
The best months for a via ferrata trip are between May and early October. Important factors are the weather as well as the operating schedules of buses and lifts....
Guidebooks 📚
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata
This topo is mainly about climbing routes, and there are countless Via Ferrata routes that are not listed in the topo.
If you look at a Hiking Map, you will see that there are mountains everywhere that can be climbed with via ferrata!
What Equipment do I need to climb a Via Ferrata?
・Via ferrata set: a lanyard and two carabiners, used to connect the harness to the steel cable of the ferrata. A securement device specialized for via ferrata is easier to use than a simple device using a sling and carabiners of rock climbing.
・Climbing harness:
・hiking/mountaineering boots:
・Helmet:
・Via ferrata gloves:
general mountaineering items, etc....
Via Ferrata climbed in the Dolomites 2015
⭐️ Punta Anna (VF5C) ～ Tofana di Mezzo(3244m)
✅ Ski Club 18 (VF5B)
⭐️ Giovanni Lipella (VF4C) ～ Tofana di Rozes(3225m)
✅ Sentiero del Curato Militare Hosp (VF2A)
⭐️ Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler (VF2B)
✅ Piz da Lech (VF3B)
✅ Piz da Cir V (VF2A)
✅ Gran Cier (?)
⭐️ Punta Anna (VF5C) ～ Tofana di Mezzo (3244m)
Via Ferrata in Punta Anna (VF5C) is very scenic and exposed. Overall, this route was the most interesting one I climbed on Via Ferrata trip (2015) 🙂 If you want to climb a long Via Ferrata, Punta Anna (VF5C) is your target.
Punta Anna (VF5C) consists of two main sections.
1️⃣ the Giuseppe Olivieri Ferrata (Rifugio Pomedes, 2303m ～ Punta Anna, 2731m)
2️⃣ the Gianni Aglio Ferrata (Punta Anna, 2731m ～Tofana di Mezzo, 3244m)
Starting from Rifugio Pomedes (2303m), the ascent to Tofana di Mezzo (3244m) has an elevation gain of 941m. I climbed the route by connecting the two sections, but after first section, "Via Ferrata Olivieri", it is possible to use the escape way to descend to the "Rifugio Giussani".
Many people seem to climb only the first section. In fact, the other people who were staying at "Rifugio Pomedes" were only up to the first section. Sure, climbing-wise, the first section is the much fun part. But if you are ready for a very long Via Ferrata ....
✅ Ski Club 18 (VF5B)
This route was the first Via Ferrata in my life. It is a short route, but it is the most climbing-oriented route I climbed on Via Ferrata trip (2015).
I arrived at Cortina D'ampezzo that morning, left my luggage at the luggage storage in the bus terminal 🛄, changed in the bathroom 🚻🚾, then started climbing before noon 😄
The route is in full view of people coming up by ropeway, so people call out to me after the climb ☺️
⭐️ Giovanni Lipella (VF4C) ～ Tofana di Rozes (3225m)
The difficulty level (Grade) of Via Ferrata is not so high, but the route is long and there is no lift for descent, so you need to walk on your own.
In terms of scale, it is not much different from Punta Anna (VF5C), but it requires considerably more endurance than Punta Anna (VF5C). My personal impression is that Giovanni Lipella (VF4C) is more mountaineering than Punta Anna (VF5C).
That day (2015) I started from Rifugio Dibona (2083m) and walked at a pace that allowed me to return to Rifugio Dibona (2083m). However, Rifugio Dibona (2083m) was fully booked, so I did not return to Rifugio Dibona (2083m) and stayed at Rifugio Giussani (2600m) on the way.
If the choice is possible, I recommend staying at Rifugio Dibona (2083m). The food at Rifugio Dibona (2083m) is very delicious 😋
✅ Sentiero del Curato Militare Hosp (VF2A)
We originally planned to climb Delle Scalette (VF3B), but since it was off limits, we decided to climb the descent route (Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler (VF2B)) used after climbing Delle Scalette (VF3B). The route is short and gentle, so maybe a good way to practice via ferrata!
⭐️ Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler (VF2B)
Luca/Innerkofler (VF2B) is the best route to view Tre Cime.
The most classical Via Ferrata to visit the Lavaredo area. This Via Ferrata was built in World War I and passes hundreds of meters through the mountain interior 🔦
This route is on the other side of "Curato Militare Hosp (VF2A)" across from Rifugio Locatelli (2405m). It is an easy route in terms of Via Ferrata, but the views along the way are spectacular. This is one of my recommended routes.
I wish the route was longer. The day I climbed the weather was bad 🌥 The view was not so good 😞 but if it was sunny ☀️ Piz Boé (3152m) and Marmolada mountain range should be visible 🤔 Maybe I can recommend this Piz da Lech (VF3B) .......
✅ Piz da Cir V (VF2A)
The approach to the climb was a bit confusing. Maybe it is a good route to experience via ferrata 🤔 I used the ropeway that day 🚡 but maybe it is a good climb if you walk from the bus stop 🤔
✅ Gran Cier (2592m)
Although it was not in the guidebook I brought with me, Gran Cier, next to Piz da Cir V, might be a good route for beginners to practice Via Ferrata 🤔 There was a man climbing in a normal climbing style without Via Ferrata equipment.
I used "Rifugio" 👉🏻 Which Rifugio would I recommend?
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