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  • Writer's picturetortoise7a

First multi-pitch climbing in a long time at Martinswand, Vosges d'Alsace 😁 too scared of slabs 😨

Updated: May 31, 2022

It is the last weekend of May 2022. The last Sunday in May is Mother's Day in France 💐 Mother's Day in Japan is the first weekend, but in France it is the last weekend.


Mother's Day is different in each country. I did not know this until I came to France 😅


May 2022 was unusually hot, with many days with high temperatures exceeding 30°C, but during the past week or so, temperatures have calmed down and even the highest temperatures have dropped to about 25°C, making it more comfortable.


Martinswand
Martinswand

On such a weekend, I went to climb Martinswand, which I have been visiting once a year since 2019.


Martinswand is a historic climbing area in Alsace, France that has been climbed since the 1960s. The bolts are well maintained and it is still one of the most popular climbing areas in Alsace.


On this day, the most popular routes were always being climbed by someone, and the area was crowded with climbers.


For those who live in Strasbourg, it is a multi-pitch climbing area, but there are also a good number of long single pitch routes for beginners 🙄


Digitale grise

👱🏻‍♀️ L1 : 6a+ 🐢 L2 : 6a+ 👱🏻‍♀️ L3 : la mulhousienne (6a)?


warming-up. One of Martinswand's signature routes. I think L1 is a little more difficult than L2, and route finding is more important. L3 should be connected with L2, right?🙄


Combination “à quand la relève ?” ( max 6b+)
Combination “à quand la relève ?” ( max 6b+)
Combination (Max 6b+)

👱🏻‍♀️ L1 : l’abbé Denis (5c+) *a mi-chemin, 🐢 L2 : “à quand la relève ?” (6b+), 🐢 L3 : l’extrême onction (6b+)


I think the hang over L3 (6b+) is not a problem as long as you know the holds. My personal crux is L2 (6b+). I think it's partly because it's the first granite slab I've climbed in a while, but it's just too scary 😨 I had no idea how to put the moves together 😂 I was reminded that granite slabs are a real thrill that can only be experienced when climbing outside the rock 🤣



l’allemande

👱🏻‍♀️ L1 : 6a+, 👱🏻‍♀️ L2 : 6a+


Last year 2021, I led two pitches, but this time I followed both pitches at the request of my partner. It is a very popular route and a lot of fun!


Martinswand is a complex interplay of climbing routes. Combinations are possible even if you don't intend them to be. I have some complaints about that, but I can confirm that this is an area where you can easily experience multi-pitch climbing on granite. That concludes today's climbing 🤣

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